Do not walk on slab before the surface is dry to avoid footprints.

Do not cover the slab with a tarp or visqueen.

On interior applications to achieve a polished, marble-like finish, the slab must be slick, hard, power trawled, (BURN SLAB) by the concrete finishers.

On exterior applications to achieve a slip resistant, fossilized limestone-like finish, the slab must have a heavy rock salt finish. The coefficient of friction of the concrete surface is a direct result of the concrete finishing.

Concrete is a porous material similar to wood and is susceptible to staining. Do not write on slab with anything except pencil.

The following substances are some examples of what may penetrate the surface and possibly stain the slab - red chalk, permanent markers, wax pencils, adhesives, flux, oils, gas, solder, primer, paint, stain, poly seal, caulk, PVC primer/cleaner, PVC adhesive, food, grease, beverages, coffee, coke, metal and nails/rust.

Lumber, wood, boards, sawdust, plywood, thermo ply, pressboard, insulation board and plastic all draw moisture from the slab and if left can transfer resins, tannins and water stains to the slab.

Cut wall plates for doors and cased openings as soon as possible.

Keep scored/stained/painted concrete area swept and clean. Be sure to warn all subcontractors that the slab will be a finished floor.

Human error is not an option in these areas. Use a drop cloth when necessary. Floor must be completely protected during primer, paint, stain or lacquer stages. Protect the floor with 4 X 8 sheets of masonite, overlapped.

DO NOT TAPE TO THE FLOOR. Painters may use blue tape or 24 hour tape and kraft paper to protect floor around walls. Drop cloths may be used to protect the field. DO NOT LEAVE BLUE TAPE OR 24 HOUR TAPE ON THE FLOOR FOR MORE THAN 24 HOUR. DO NOT COVER WITH VISQUEEN.